Dryer Repair – Replacing the Multi Rib Belt (Whirlpool Part # 661570)

Hi, it’s Ervin from winnipeg-appliance-repair.ca. We’re going to explain you how to change a belt on your dryer. It’s a pretty easy job; all We’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver, a quarter inch nut driver, a putty knife, and a pair of needle nose pliers. Let me explain you how we do it. Since We’re going to be working around some electrical circuits the first thing we need to do before we start is disconnect the power to the dryer.

If it has a cord on it, simply disconnect it from the socket; if it’s hard-wired we’ll need to locate the breaker and turn that off. Next up will be to remove the two end caps, simply lift up on the top, tilt them forward; they hook on the bottom with a small tab and there’s two more on the top as well. So remove both of those. That will expose a couple of Phillips screws, one on each side, that we can remove. Next we’ll rotate the console: pull it forward than rotate it backwards.

That will give us access to three quarter inch hex head screws we need to remove. Next we’ll slide the main top forward, and then lift it completely off of the dryer. Now the next step in this repair will be to remove the lower access panel. With our putty knife we’ll just go in about three inches on either side, depress the spring clip, and pop the front panel forward, and you can lift it off the two hooks on the bottom, and set that aside.

Now if your model has a door that lowers down you’ll need to remove two springs. And then next we’ll remove the two quarter inch hex head screws that are located at the bottom of the door panel. Now if your model of dryer has an auto-dry feature you may need to remove this wire that goes to the sensor bars.

And as well we’ll remove the wires from the door switch. Some switches will have two wires on them, and some will have three; so take note of the location of each of those. Now We’re ready to remove the front panel and bulkhead assembly. Simply lift up a little bit, pull forward; you’ll probably have to lift the drum a bit to disengage it from the front drum rollers. The next step will be to disengage the belt from the idler pulley.

The idler pulley is located directly behind the blower here. Simply roll the belt off of the idler pulley, just pull the belt forward. You may need to pull the idler arm to the left a bit to pull the tension off of it. through the belt, and slide
Make sure it’s disengaged from the motor pulley as well; now we can lift up on the drum to disengage the rear drum rollers, and then pull it through the front of the cabinet.

Now before we replace the belt, since we have the drum out we’ll check the idler pulley to make sure it turns freely on its shaft, and that the little tri-ring is in good shape; check the rear drum rollers: make sure they turn freely; and again that the little tri-rings are in place. Now before we install the new belt you should inspect the drum seals, both front and rear drum seals, make sure they’re in good shape. And we’ll take the new belt, with the ribbed side against the drum, simply slip it around the drum, and the end position for that belt should be just back of the center portion of that drum. So at that point we’ll just grab the drum through the belt, and slide it into position.

We’ll hook the rear drum rollers into this groove at the back.
Just lay the belt flat. Next we need to connect the belt to the motor pulley and the idler pulley. So we’ll put some tension on the idler pulley spring by pulling it to the left, lay the belt over top of the idler pulley, and then roll it underneath the idler pulley and then over onto the motor pulley. Make sure it’s fitting firmly on the motor pulley and centered up on the idler pulley.

And next We’re ready for the bulkhead. Now we’ll engage this portion of the blower housing with the spring clip in front of the blower; we’ll have to lift up on the drum a little bit to make sure it sits into the drum rollers.
Make sure our springs are intact.

Start by installing the two screws on the top, and then the two screws across the bottom.

the idler

Next we’ll reconnect the door springs if yours is a tilt down door. And if you have an electronic dry model we need to reconnect the wire to the sensor.

And next the lower access panel. Make sure the two slotted holes on the bottom engage the clips. And now the wires for the door switch. with your repair
And We’re ready to put the main top on. Now We’re ready to put the main top back on.

A couple of hooks at the front on either side that will engage this portion on the top so we’ll need to line those up and slide the main top back; just lift up on each corner to make sure we’ve engaged those tabs. We’ll reinstall the three quarter inch hex head screws. Next we’ll rotate the console back into position making sure that we engage these two hooks on the bottom of the end caps with the slotted holes in the main top. Push it back into place.

Install the two Phillips screws. Take care not to over tighten these. Next we’ll reinstall the end caps; locate the bottom tab and insert it into the slot, line it up and just snap it into place.

Now We’re ready to reconnect the power, and our repair is complete. Told you that was an easy job. Thanks for reading, and good luck with your repair.

Dryer Repair – Replacing the Multi Rib Belt (Whirlpool Part # 661570)

Hi, it’s Ervin from winnipeg-appliance-repair.ca. We’re going to explain you how to change a belt on your dryer. It’s a pretty easy job; all We’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver, a quarter inch nut driver, a putty knife, and a pair of needle nose pliers.

Let me explain you how we do it. Since We’re going to be working around some electrical circuits the first thing we need to do before we start is disconnect the power to the dryer. If it has a cord on it, simply disconnect it from the socket; if it’s hard-wired we’ll need to locate the breaker and turn that off. Next up will be to remove the two end caps, simply lift up on the top, tilt them forward; they hook on the bottom with a small tab and there’s two more on the top as well.

So remove both of those. That will expose a couple of Phillips screws, one on each side, that we can remove. Next we’ll rotate the console: pull it forward than rotate it backwards. That will give us access to three quarter inch hex head screws we need to remove. Next we’ll slide the main top forward, and then lift it completely off of the dryer.

Now the next step in this repair will be to remove the lower access panel. With our putty knife we’ll just go in about three inches on either side, depress the spring clip, and pop the front panel forward, and you can lift it off the two hooks on the bottom, and set that aside. Now if your model has a door that lowers down you’ll need to remove two springs.

And then next we’ll remove the two quarter inch hex head screws that are located at the bottom of the door panel. Now if your model of dryer has an auto-dry feature you may need to remove this wire that goes to the sensor bars. And as well we’ll remove the wires from the door switch.

Some switches will have two wires on them, and some will have three; so take note of the location of each of those. Now We’re ready to remove the front panel and bulkhead assembly. Simply lift up a little bit, pull forward; you’ll probably have to lift the drum a bit to disengage it from the front drum rollers.

The next step will be to disengage the belt from the idler pulley. The idler pulley is located directly behind the blower here. Simply roll the belt off of the idler pulley, just pull the belt forward. You may need to pull the idler arm to the left a bit to pull the tension off of it.

Make sure it’s disengaged from the motor pulley as well; now we can lift up on the drum to disengage the rear drum rollers, and then pull it through the front of the cabinet. Now before we replace the belt, since we have the drum out we’ll check the idler pulley to make sure it turns freely on its shaft, and that the little tri-ring is in good shape; check the rear drum rollers: make sure they turn freely; and again that the little tri-rings are in place. Now before we install the new belt you should inspect the drum seals, both front and rear drum seals, make sure they’re in good shape.

And we’ll take the new belt, with the ribbed side against the drum, simply slip it around the drum, and the end position for that belt should be just back of the center portion of that drum. So at that point we’ll just grab the drum through the belt, and slide it into position. We’ll hook the rear drum rollers into this groove at the back.

Just lay the belt flat. Next we need to connect the belt to the motor pulley and the idler pulley. So we’ll put some tension on the idler pulley spring by pulling it to the left, lay the belt over top of the idler pulley, and then roll it underneath the idler pulley and then over onto the motor pulley.

Make sure it’s fitting firmly on the motor pulley and centered up on the idler pulley. And next We’re ready for the bulkhead. Now we’ll engage this portion of the blower housing with the spring clip in front of the blower; we’ll have to lift up on the drum a little bit to make sure it sits into the drum rollers. Make sure our springs are intact. Start by installing the two screws on the top, and then the two screws across the bottom.

Next we’ll reconnect the door springs if yours is a tilt down door.
And if you have an electronic dry model we need to reconnect the wire to the sensor. And next the lower access panel. Make sure the two slotted holes on the bottom engage the clips.

And now the wires for the door switch. And We’re ready to put the main top on. Now We’re ready to put the main top back on. A couple of hooks at the front on either side that will engage this portion on the top so we’ll need to line those up and slide the main top back; just lift up on each corner to make sure we’ve engaged those tabs. We’ll reinstall the three quarter inch hex head screws.

Next we’ll rotate the console back into position making sure that we engage these two hooks on the bottom of the end caps with the slotted holes in the main top. Push it back into place. Install the two Phillips screws.

Take care not to over tighten these. Next we’ll reinstall the end caps; locate the bottom tab and insert it into the slot, line it up and just snap it into place. Now We’re ready to reconnect the power, and our repair is complete. Told you that was an easy job.

Thanks for reading, and good luck with your repair.

Dryer Repair – Replacing the Multi Rib Belt (Whirlpool Part # 661570)

Hi, it’s Ervin from winnipeg-appliance-repair.ca. We’re going to explain you how to change a belt on your dryer. It’s a pretty easy job; all We’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver, a quarter inch nut driver, a putty knife, and a pair of needle nose pliers. Let me explain you how we do it. Since We’re going to be working around some electrical circuits the first thing we need to do before we start is disconnect the power to the dryer.

If it has a cord on it, simply disconnect it from the socket; if it’s hard-wired we’ll need to locate the breaker and turn that off. Next up will be to remove the two end caps, simply lift up on the top, tilt them forward; they hook on the bottom with a small tab and there’s two more on the top as well. So remove both of those. That will expose a couple of Phillips screws, one on each side, that we can remove.

Next we’ll rotate the console: pull it forward than rotate it backwards. That will give us access to three quarter inch hex head screws we need to remove. Next we’ll slide the main top forward, and then lift it completely off of the dryer. Now the next step in this repair will be to remove the lower access panel. With our putty knife we’ll just go in about three inches on either side, depress the spring clip, and pop the front panel forward, and you can lift it off the two hooks on the bottom, and set that aside.

Now if your model has a door that lowers down you’ll need to remove two springs. And then next we’ll remove the two quarter inch hex head screws that are located at the bottom of the door panel. Now if your model of dryer has an auto-dry feature you may need to remove this wire that goes to the sensor bars. And as well we’ll remove the wires from the door switch. Some switches will have two wires on them, and some will have three; so take note of the location of each of those.

Now We’re ready to remove the front panel and bulkhead assembly. Simply lift up a little bit, pull forward; you’ll probably have to lift the drum a bit to disengage it from the front drum rollers. The next step will be to disengage the belt from the idler pulley. The idler pulley is located directly behind the blower here. Simply roll the belt off of the idler pulley, just pull the belt forward.

You may need to pull the idler arm to the left a bit to pull the tension off of it. Make sure it’s disengaged from the motor pulley as well; now we can lift up on the drum to disengage the rear drum rollers, and then pull it through the front of the cabinet. Now before we replace the belt, since we have the drum out we’ll check the idler pulley to make sure it turns freely on its shaft, and that the little tri-ring is in good shape; check the rear drum rollers: make sure they turn freely; and again that the little tri-rings are in place.

Now before we install the new belt you should inspect the drum seals, both front and rear drum seals, make sure they’re in good shape. And we’ll take the new belt, with the ribbed side against the drum, simply slip it around the drum, and the end position for that belt should be just back of the center portion of that drum. So at that point we’ll just grab the drum through the belt, and slide it into position. We’ll hook the rear drum rollers into this groove at the back.
Just lay the belt flat.

Next we need to connect the belt to the motor pulley and the idler pulley. So we’ll put some tension on the idler pulley spring by pulling it to the left, lay the belt over top of the idler pulley, and then roll it underneath the idler pulley and then over onto the motor pulley. Make sure it’s fitting firmly on the motor pulley and centered up on the idler pulley. And next We’re ready for the bulkhead. Now we’ll engage this portion of the blower housing with the spring clip in front of the blower; we’ll have to lift up on the drum a little bit to make sure it sits into the drum rollers.

Make sure our springs are intact. Start by installing the two screws on the top, and then the two screws across the bottom. Next we’ll reconnect the door springs if yours is a tilt down door.

And if you have an electronic dry model we need to reconnect the wire to the sensor. And next the lower access panel. Make sure the two slotted holes on the bottom engage the clips.

And now the wires for the door switch. And We’re ready to put the main top on. Now We’re ready to put the main top back on.

A couple of hooks at the front on either side that will engage this portion on the top so we’ll need to line those up and slide the main top back; just lift up on each corner to make sure we’ve engaged those tabs. We’ll reinstall the three quarter inch hex head screws. Next we’ll rotate the console back into position making sure that we engage these two hooks on the bottom of the end caps with the slotted holes in the main top. Push it back into place. Install the two Phillips screws.

Take care not to over tighten these. Next we’ll reinstall the end caps; locate the bottom tab and insert it into the slot, line it up and just snap it into place. Now We’re ready to reconnect the power, and our repair is complete.
Told you that was an easy job.

Thanks for reading, and good luck with your repair.