we’d like to explain you how to change the blower wheel on your drier. If the blower wheel fails, it may go out of balance and cause a lot of noise in your dryer or could cause a reduction in the airflow and therefore affect your drying performance.
It’s a really easy job to change. Let me explain you how we do it.
Now before we begin this repair, the first thing we’ll need to do is to disconnect the power. We’re also going to need to gain access to the back of the dryer, so we’ll need to pull it forward and that may require disconnecting the exhaust vent.
Now that we have access to the back of the dryerWe’re going to remove the back panel.
Just remove all of the screws including the cover terminal block. Just slide that back panel out of the way and set it aside. Now that we’ve removed the back panel, our next step will be to remove the inlet duct assembly.
Let’s hit all to the boiler house with four screws. We just remove those. Now we can tilt that housing out at the bottom. Just tilt it a little bit to the left. Pull it away from filter inlet.
We’ll set that aside. Now we have access to the blower wheel. Our next step will be to remove the Lint filter. Simply pull it up and set it aside.
That will give us access to two Philips screws that secure the top to the inlet duct assembly and we’ll need to remove those. Now, that will allow us to lift the main top. There are a couple of spring clips located in two or three inches from either side. We can either use a putty knife to go into that gap and depress them, you can simply hold the main top forward while holding the cabinet just far enough that we can lift it away from them. Do that on both sides and then we can lift the main top up.
Now we’ll need to support that in some method or have somebody hold it in place. Now with that properly supported, our next step will be to disconnect the door switch harness. We’ll pick a flat blade screwdriver.
We’ll get more of the little locking tabs are on both sides of that connector. You just pry that up a bit on both sides to release it. Then our next step will be to remove two 5/16 hex head screws that secure the front panel.
Just hold that front panel in place. You may need to lift up just slightly on the drum.
Tilt the panel forward. You’ll need to lift it up slightly to disengage two clips on the lower edges of the cabinet. I want you to disengage it. You can pull that front panel away. With the front panel removed, our next step will be to release the tension on that belt, so we’ll reach in and the right-hand side you’ll find the either assembly.
We’re just going to pull that towards the right side of the cabinet. That will release the tension on the belt, you can roll it off of the lower pulley and the idler. We’re using the belt, we’ll then be able to lift that.
We can now set that drum aside until we’re ready to put it back in. Now that we have the drum out of the way, our next step will be to remove the rear motor mounting clip with a large flat blade screwdriver. Go in on the end of that clip and put some downward pressure and outward pressure. Just pop that off and that will expose the square hub on the lower wheel. Now next we’ll take a 7/16 wrench and in behind the motor dry pulley, you’ll note that the motor shaft has a flat spot on it.
Then position the wrench on it. Lower wheel has a left-hand spread on it so we’ll take an adjustable wrench or three-quarter inch wrench, put it over that square portion on the shaft. Then we’re going to turn it counterclockwise as we face it from this angle. Once we have it broken free we can spin it off on the front or go to the rear and turn it by hand as long as we keep the motor shaft from turning.
Now that we’ve freed up the blower wheel from the front, we will remove the inlet duct assembly.
You can now just spin that blower wheel off of the shaft and because it’s a left-hands ribWe’re going to turn it clockwise from the back till it’s completely free. We’ll discard the old one, set the new one on the shaft and you just turn it on by hand. We can now put that inlet duct assembly back on and then we’ll go through the inside of the dryer to tighten the blower wheel onto the motor shaft.
We’ll take that inlet duct assembly, then we’ll tilt it just slightly to the left and we’ll fit the top port product in over the top of the bulkhead, and then just position it so that the screw holes line up with the blower housing and then install those four screws. Now we’ll put the back panel on. Just center it up and we’ll hang it by the top corners until we line up the rest of the screw holes. Now we can go to the front of the dryer.
Now that we’ve spun the blower wheel onto the motor shaft, then we have the backhaul buttoned up. We’re ready to tighten that blower wheel. Again, we’ll use our 7/16 wrench on the shaft, and are adjustable on the hub of that blower wheel.
Next, we’ll need to put the motor mounting clip back on.
We’ll hook the lower portion of that metal tank on the right-hand side of the motor and make sure that’s fully engaged and then just pivot it over the top of the motor housing then press it onto the left-hand side. You may need your flat blade screwdriver for that.
Just put it down into that little website and give a little bit of a bump. Just inspect it to make sure that it did catch on both sides and it’s firmly in place.
Now we’re ready to put the drum back in. Now when we’re reinstalling the drum, we want to make sure that the groove here sits on top of the two drum rollers and that the lip of that rear seal lays against the rear bulkhead. Begin by just draping the belt around the tumbler with the loose side of the belt against the tumbler.
Lift it into the open then position it on top of the drum rollers. You may need to rock it back and forth a bit to get it seated. Then just let it hang there. Now our next step will be to route the belt around the either and the motor pulley. Now when reinstalling the drum and the belt, we need to know how that belt will fit around the idler and the motor pulley.
Esentially the belt will come through that opening on the bottom of the idler, it will wrap around the motor pulley, then the groove side of the belt will wrap around the drum so when we put it in, the belt will be just hanging loose, we’ll pull it through that opening, pull the idler over, release the tension on the belt so you can roll it on to the motor pulley. We’ll reach in from below to pull that belt from the right hand side towards the center, locate the idler, roll it over the top of the idler whether it is a glide or roller then pull it through underneath, push the idler towards the right, release the tension on the belt, and then roll the belt onto the motor pulley. With that properly seated, should be able to turn the drum and the motor will turn as well. Now we’re ready to put the front panel back on. We’re ready to put that front panel back on.
We want to make sure that we fold that felt up because it will fit into the opening of the drum. You’ll probably need to lift that drum as you position the front panel in place.
On the bottom of the front panel, there are two square holes that will fit over top of a hook clip on both sides of the cabinet so we’ll engage that first, making sure that the bottom edge of the front panel goes below this guard.
Just position it like that, lift up on it, fit those clips into the square holes, lift the drum up, and then push it into place so we can attach the screws. Tighten both of those screws securely. Now, to reconnect the door switch harness, make sure it’s fully inserted so that the locking tabs are engaged. Now we’re ready to tilt the top down, engage with the front panel so just pull it slightly forward, make sure it’s hooked on both sides, and then we’ll reinstall the two screws into the lint filter opening, reinstall the filter.
Now we’re ready to push the dryer back into position, reconnect the vent if you’ve disconnected it, and reconnect the power.
Our repair is complete.